Inside Endo at the Rotunda: Endo Kazutoshi's World of Sushi, Precision and Culinary Obsession

Words: Mallory Legg

Photography: Mallory Legg

It’s a grim, grey January day in London. Rain streaks down the vast windows of Endo at the Rotunda, a glassy cocoon above the city’s drizzle. Inside, however, things are far from gloomy.

Chef Endo Kazutoshi is a spark of energy behind the counter - sleeves rolled, eyes focused, movement precise. While the weather sulks outside, Endo is all about intensity.

He glides his knife through the pink flesh of the tuna, wiping the blade clean and scanning the fish for its next cut, repeating the actions with meticulous care. “He lives and breathes this place,” someone whispered to me. “And the people don’t just come to eat; they come to see him”.

So, this is where you will find him, standing behind the 200-year-old Hinoki wood counter, with Japanese glass paper dangling above him and music composed and explicitly orchestrated for this dining room, his dining room.

There’s a meditative quality to his movements - deliberate, practised, but deeply personal. This isn’t just a job. For Endo, sushi is a legacy.

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A Life Shaped by Sushi & Punk Energy

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Born and raised in Yokohama, Japan, Endo’s earliest memories are of his family’s sushi restaurant, located just below their home. “Sushi has always been my destiny,” he reflects.

As a child, he watched his grandfather and father behind the counter, their hands moving with an ease that only decades of repetition could bring. “Being a sushi master means years of mastery and practice; it’s gruelling work but also a great art”.

“She told me I had to choose - my family and sushi, or judo. I picked sushi...”

But like any good story, there is a twist. As a teenager, Endo dreamed of breaking free from the family business, focusing instead on judo. His mother, however, forced the decision. “She told me I had to choose - my family and sushi, or judo. I picked sushi,” he says with a hint of rebellion still lingering beneath.

It’s that rebellious streak that surfaces when he talks about his love for punk rock. “Punk is energy; it’s pushing boundaries,” he says, cutting through the soft sounds of the kitchen. It’s an ethos he’s woven into his craft - respecting tradition while finding space for innovation.

The Foundation of Everything: Rice

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That balance is evident in every detail at Endo at the Rotunda. The rice, for instance, might seem simple to the untrained eye, but Endo treats it as the foundation of his art. “Every piece of sushi begins with rice and water,” he explains.

“I import my rice from Japan, and it’s important that the rice and water come from the same place - they’ve already achieved harmony”.

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He prepares it fresh multiple times each service, adjusting for subtle changes in humidity or temperature. “Each day, every hour, the rice can be different. My job is to understand and adjust accordingly”.

The way he speaks of rice, you’d think he was talking about a living, breathing creature. But that’s part of what makes his sushi so remarkable - every detail counts.

Michelin Recognition and the Art of Service

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Endo at the Rotunda earned its first Michelin star four months after opening. Since then, it’s retained it every year.

Yet, there’s no sense of ego here. Endo still stands behind the counter almost every night, reading his guests as much as he reads the fish. “Judging whether the guests are having an enjoyable time and how full they are, a sushi master must consider these factors,” he says.

“At the Rotunda, I combine traditional practices - the way I prepare my fish, the calligraphy and ikebana in the space - with a modern outlook...”

His connection with diners is as essential as his technique. You can see it when he serves a piece of nigiri, waiting, watching, subtly gauging their reaction.

It’s a silent dialogue built on trust and intuition.

Omotenashi and the Future of Sushi

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Endo’s philosophy draws heavily from the Japanese concept of Omotenashi: the art of hospitality rooted in empathy.

It’s a delicate dance between honouring tradition and embracing change.

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“At the Rotunda, I combine traditional practices - the way I prepare my fish, the calligraphy and ikebana in the space - with a modern outlook,” he explains. “With every service, I strive to make it my best yet”.

Global diners, he notes, are becoming more educated, seeking out authentic sushi experiences, which allows chefs like him more freedom to practice their craft without compromise. “For the future of sushi,” he says, “I feel very hopeful”.

A Legacy in Motion

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The day stretches on, and Endo’s energy hasn’t waned. There’s a rhythm to his work, a systematic dynamic between himself, the ingredients, and the space.

Chef Endo exemplifies the perfect balance of tradition and innovation, dedication and creativity. Rain or shine, his commitment to his craft is unwavering.

“There is nowhere to hide with sushi,” he says. As he shapes each piece, he is not merely feeding guests but inviting them into a world of artistry, history, and connection.

It’s this authenticity and passion that ensures his legacy as not just a chef, not just one of London’s best chefs, but a true sushi master.