Discovering Sollip London: Michelin-Starred Korean Fine Dining

Words: Luke Brown

Photography: Rebecca Dickson

Sollip offers an antidote to the theatrical flair of some of its Michelin-starred counterparts across London, much like other understated standouts in the city’s dining scene, such as The Silver Birch in Chiswick.

Here, tranquillity takes the lead. Subtlety and understatement are the stars - once you’ve crossed the Michelin threshold, there’s little need for bravado. Excellence, after all, speaks for itself.

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A Minimalist Dining Room Near London Bridge

Tucked into a minimalist space near London Bridge, the restaurant’s design mirrors its menu: sharp, clean, and refined.

Soft pendant lighting casts a warm glow over cream and white tones, gently offset by wooden tables.

The low murmur of conversation hums in the background, completing a space that’s been carefully tuned to let the food take centre stage.

British Ingredients, French Technique, Korean Influence

Opened in August 2020 by married couple Woongchul Park and Bomee Ki, Sollip is an expression of their shared journey - from Le Cordon Bleu training to their Korean heritage.

The concept is simple: British ingredients, French technique, and Korean flavours - a philosophy that aligns closely with the growing emphasis on provenance seen across the best farm-to-fork restaurants.

It’s grown-up dining - thoughtful, skilful, and effortlessly delicious.

A Lunch Service at Sollip

Unusually, I am not eating in the evening. Today is an afternoon sitting, on a pleasant London spring day. I like eating at lunchtime - it’s reminiscent of the long business lunch, which seems to be all but extinct in most quarters, but maybe I’m just looking in the wrong places.

I am greeted by the prospect of a four-course set menu, with amuse-bouches to whet the appetite, complemented, naturally, by the wine pairing - a thoughtful selection that reflects the broader shift in how we approach wine today, as explored in our look at modern wine regions changing how we drink.

Set menus are always handy, it removes the burden of choice, nullifies any overthinking - the chef has already done that for you.

The drinks are the first order of the day. Our waiter is smart, smiling and extremely helpful - he glides between kitchen and table, with full explanations of what you are about to eat and drink.

"The oyster - perfectly poached - is contrasted by the texture and earthiness of the lentils, whilst the Hwangtae adds additional depth to the dish..."

He arrives with the Thierry Fournier Reserve Champagne, a punchy explanation of the tasting notes - which in my lesser knowledgeable position would describe as rather quaffable - and a graceful exit back to the kitchen to bring the first amuse-bouche.

Hoe, as its named, is first. Simple, but nuanced it’s a strong introduction to Sollip’s offering. A ceviche-style sea bass, dressed with garlic, caper and a bit of soy work in harmony to raise the culinary curtain on what is to come. It grabs the attention but isn’t showy.

This is soon followed by Gamtae, which sees seaweed from Korea and Caerphilly cheese from Somerset brought together in unison. I never imagined seaweed and cheese being paired together, but their partnership, encased within a delicate pastry, worked perfectly.

Service and Pacing

Our waiter returns, a quick clear of the table, and I soon find myself with a glass of Domaine H, Rousanne Savoie white, which is crisp and light - a complement to the first main dish: Poached Oyster with Hwangtae and Speckled Lentils.

The oyster - perfectly poached - is contrasted by the texture and earthiness of the lentils, whilst the Hwangtae adds additional depth to the dish. It’s well-rounded, rather moreish and not to mention beautifully presented - a recurring theme throughout the afternoon.

A rest between courses ensues, allowing a moment to soak in the surroundings - all the other patrons engrossed in conversation, enjoying each mouthful. Sollip has a certain matureness, there is an unspoken confidence, without any pretention.

Signature Dishes and Wine Pairings

The rhythm of the afternoon is continued after the short sojourn between first and second course, as our waiter brings out the third wine pairing - a silky Le Galouchey, Vin De Jardin Bordeaux.

This is accompanied by Sot-Bap, a Korean mushroom pot rice which is rich and slightly smoky. This was the pre-cursor to the main, Barbecued Wagyu, Jersualem Artichoke Jangajji, Baechu Puree and Spinach.

The dish is full-bodied - bold and intense in flavour contrasting the delicate oyster.

Served alongside a generous glass of the red and the Sot-Bap, this was the undisputed centrepiece of the afternoon - elegantly composed, assured in its flavours.

Desserts and the Final Course

I was feeling content and enjoying the flow of the menu, with the two dessert dishes still to come.

First, a refreshing compilation of Lychee and Jasmine, with Jasmine Snow, Fermented Lychee and Pomelo. Subtle sweetness, and more akin to a palate cleanser, the fermented Lychee and Pomelo add the freshness, whilst a touch of lemon oil brings balance.

This came with the final pairing - a dessert wine from Alsace, with a name almost as long as the meal itself. But here are the essentials, and all you really need to know: Ostertag, Gewurztraminer, Alsace, 2018. Trust those four details and you’ll find your way to the right bottle.

To end, a Kugelhopf Madeleine arrives. A well-executed finish. The cake - soaked in syrup for months and brushed with Grand Marnier - delivers an aromatic, spirited finish. It’s a memorable final bite, rounding off the menu.

Sollip in the Context of London’s Dining Scene

In a city where dining can often feel too dramatic, Sollip knows its character and approach; it is not inundated by gimmicks or conceptual hot air.

It is entirely food first, where full attention is given to the diners.

The dishes talk for themselves, the wine pairings are excellent, the surrounding décor, and even slightly secretive location, all make sense; there is no need for flash or brash here, just unbridled, pure culinary enjoyment.

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