Atmosphere is everything when I’m dining out. I want a place that’s buzzing with life - a rip-roaring, dynamic environment, not some soulless, white-coat affair where speaking above a whisper feels like a crime. Dining should be a joy, not a trip back down memory lane to the examination hall.
So, imagine my delight when I walked into The Brush Grand Café in Hoxton and found it bouncing. The room was packed - couples laughing, groups celebrating, voices rising and overlapping - on first impressions, it certainly ticked the atmosphere box.
But here’s the twist: my enthusiasm for this electric atmosphere came with a side of scepticism. Why? Hotel restaurants. Too often, they’re bland, uninspired, and don’t deliver. But this place? It delivered. Tucked inside the art’otel in Hoxton, The Brush Grand Café is the antidote to the sterile hotel dining clichés.
An Atmosphere That Hits All the Right Notes Defines The Brush Grand Café Hoxton
It’s no-nonsense, proper food with zero pretension. Think classic brasserie or grand European café in approach with a healthy sprinkle of modern quirk - enough to pull in the creatives, but grounded enough to appeal to the suits.
The crowd was a melting pot of Londoners - artsy types rubbing elbows with sharp-dressed financiers - all soaking up the good food and doing it without breaking the bank. It’s intimate but lively, polished yet approachable, and, best of all, it delivers a cracking dining experience without the usual London price shock.
As we settled in, surrounded by walls decked out with striking artwork, it struck me how they’d taken the all-day dining concept - think The Delaunay or The Wolseley - but added a playful, modern twist.
Stylish, Modern Interiors with a Classic Edge
The design leans more offbeat than the grand café tradition might suggest, yet somehow, it all clicks. And judging by the fully booked tables around us, I wasn’t the only one who thought so.
We’d barely had a chance to admire the scene when Samuel, our white-shirted, apron-clad waiter, materialised at the table. Almost as if he could read our minds, he jumped straight into the cocktail menu, tempting us with his suggestions to get the evening rolling.
On Samuel’s recommendation: enter Le Rat - a clever riff on the Manhattan made with Bulleit Bourbon, sweet vermouth, mandarin, pandan, and tonka bitters. It was bold, smooth, and just the right mix of sweet and smoky, similar to the classic cocktail with a little extra oomph.
The appetiser of Padron Peppers with Lime was simple but spot-on. Charred just right, with a zingy lime kick that kept things fresh, they were perfect to whet the appetite.
Exceptional Food Without the Fluff
Then came the starters. The Beef Tartare with a Confit Egg Yolk and Sourdough was indulgent and satisfying - silky, rich beef brightened by the creamy yolk, with the sourdough adding both texture and additional sustenance. Across the table, the French Onion Soup delivered everything you want in the classic: a deep, hearty broth topped with a lid of rich, melted cheese. Comfort food at its best.
For mains, the Grilled Monkfish Chop stole the show. It came with a delicate clam velouté that was both light and indulgent, meanwhile, the Veal And ’Nduja Meatballs brought a punch of flavour. They were rich, spicy, and paired beautifully with crispy roast potatoes and a generous dusting of parmesan. Decadent, hearty, and completely satisfying.
We kept the wine simple - a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 from Les Mougeottes in Languedoc. It was smooth, full-bodied, and more than up to the task of keeping pace with all the bold flavours on the table.
Dessert rounded things off. The Vanilla Crème Brûlée was classic and flawless, with the perfectly crisp sugar shell giving way to silky custard. The Basque Cheesecake With Strawberry Compote? Light, creamy, with just the right balance of tang and sweetness.
Why The Brush Grand Café Is a Must-Visit
Clean plates and empty glasses? Absolutely. We devoured everything in sight, and for good reason - the food was spot-on. This isn’t the kind of dining that’s out to shock or push boundaries, nor is it the kind of precision cooking that’s all about revolutionary technique.
But that’s not the point of The Brush Grand Café.
This place is about delivering quality dishes without the fluff - no over-the-top presentation, no unnecessary gimmicks. Just good, honest food served in the spirit of the great European grand cafés, but with a fresh, modern twist. Instead of old-world chandeliers and stuffy, ornate furnishings, you get a trendy, “hip-but-classic” that somehow strikes the perfect balance.
Too many London restaurants get caught up in the wrong game - obsessing over gimmicks, dripping in luxury, or peddling exclusivity like it’s a badge of honour.
The Brush Grand Café?
It skips all that nonsense and nails the basics: excellent food, a cracking atmosphere, and interiors that are interesting without being try-hard. It’s a winning formula, and it works. I will certainly be back soon…
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