Sova Notting Hill: Inside London's New Wine and Vinyl Listening Bar
Words: Luke Brown
Photography: Rebecca Hope
Nestled just off Portobello Road on Blenheim Crescent sits Sova, one of the newest additions to Notting Hill’s ever-evolving collection of wine bars, bakeries and neighbourhood restaurants.
Proudly describing itself as both a wine and vinyl listening bar, it has quickly established itself as a favourite among locals, while drawing diners from further afield.
After rushing across town from Holborn for a 7:30pm booking, weaving through rush-hour traffic on a battery-depleted Lime bike, I eventually rolled into the streets of Notting Hill with just enough charge - and just enough breath - to make it on time.
Blenheim Crescent was alive with conversation, tables spilling onto the pavement, glasses clinking in the fading light.
Inside Sova, Notting Hill's Wine and Vinyl Bar
I quickly found Sova, full both inside and out, just a couple of doors down from the famed Notting Hill Bookshop.
My friend was already waiting at the counter as I stepped inside, immediately met by the warm glow of low-hung lamps reflecting off the marble bar.
Deep walnut shelving stretched from floor to ceiling, painted walls in muted greens softened the room, while rows of vinyl, carefully chosen bottles and the occasional piece of artwork filled the shelves.
At one end of the counter sat a pair of turntables and a mixing deck, whilst behind the bar, staff moved effortlessly between pouring wine, shaking cocktails and selecting the evening’s soundtrack.
The growing appeal of HiFi listening bars lies in precisely this combination of music, atmosphere and hospitality, with vinyl becoming as much a part of the experience as the drinks themselves.
Eastern European Wines and Vinyl
Sova is the latest venture from the team behind ZIMA, the much-loved Eastern European restaurant celebrating its tenth anniversary this year. Following ZIMA’s move to Soho, the Notting Hill site has been given a new lease of life, reimagined as a wine and vinyl bar.
Its shelves champion low-intervention bottles from across Central and Eastern Europe - Georgia, Armenia and Ukraine among them - while the soundtrack, spun exclusively on vinyl, is every bit as considered as the wine list.
It is a reflection of the growing interest in lesser-known wine regions, with drinkers increasingly looking beyond the familiar producers of France, Italy and Spain.
We settled onto the stools at the bar and quickly turned our attention to the wine list, guided by our waitress, who enthusiastically steered us through the Eastern and Central European producers on offer.
To begin, I opted for the Grappa Negroni - a punchy, bittersweet aperitif that was well suited to the balmy London evening.
With its distinctive drinks list and vinyl-led soundtrack, Sova is also a reminder of how much character London's more unusual bars can offer beyond the familiar cocktail menu.
Between sips and conversation, we turned our attention to the food menu. Mercifully, it is short and sweet - something that always sits well with me.
Slavic-Inspired Sharing Plates
Sharing plates are the order of the day at Sova, with Moldovan chef Denis Calmis weaving subtle Slavic influences throughout the menu.
It is another example of London's increasingly varied dining scene, where chefs are bringing their own culinary traditions and influences to the capital, from contemporary Korean cooking to the flavours of Eastern Europe.
We wasted little time in making our choices. First to arrive were thick slices of sourdough from Notting Hill Bakery, alongside marinated olives scented with lemon, garlic and thyme.
Our attention returned to the wine list. The breadth of choice made for no easy decision, although the tasters helped narrow the field. Eventually, we settled on a crisp, dry Croatian white from Feravino - a bottle that proved bright, refreshing and extremely quaffable.
The glasses arrived and the next plates followed. First came the Slow-roasted Peppers with Anchovies and Dill Oil, swiftly followed by Beef Tartare on Borodinsky Bread with Horseradish Mayonnaise.
The anchovies brought a welcome salinity that balanced the sweetness of the peppers, while the beef tartare was rich and indulgent, its horseradish mayonnaise providing just enough lift to cut through the intensity of the meat.
Meanwhile, the Raw Tuna with Adjika, Cucumber, Fennel and Capers proved wonderfully fresh and summery. Delicate and light, it disappeared within a matter of minutes.
For the final sharing plate, Miso-glazed Duck Confit with Roasted Jerusalem Artichokes and Plum Sauce took centre stage. Beautifully pink through the middle, it paired with the recommended Armenian Pinot Noir, bringing the savoury courses to a fitting close.
There was just enough room for dessert, and the Dark Chocolate Mousse with Sea Buckthorn proved a strong finale, enjoyed alongside the last remaining drops of the Pinot Noir.
Sova Notting Hill: Our Verdict
We left well-nourished and thoroughly content. Sova feels exactly as a neighbourhood wine bar should: warm, welcoming and interesting. It is the sort of spot that makes exploring a city's independent restaurants and wine bars so rewarding, whether in London, Amsterdam or further afield.
The listening bar concept gives it genuine character without feeling contrived, while its thoughtful focus on Central and Eastern European wines offers something genuinely different from the norm.
Add in a menu of elegant, flavour-led sharing plates and you have a compelling new opening.
I’ll certainly be back.
